28°-50°, 140 Fetter Lane, EC4A

This is a restaurant that knows and loves its wine. The name gives the first hint of this - 28° and 50° are the latitudes between which virtually all of the world’s vineyards are located. The décor provides the second clue. When you walk downstairs away from the bustling city, you are greeted by walls lined with wine bottles and wooden cases alongside trendy wooden tables and chairs, delicious wafts from the kitchen and a gentle hum of enjoyment.

On the Thursday night that we visited it was fully booked with standing room only at the bar, so we were relieved that we had made a reservation. We were presented with the food menu, the wine list and a clipboard with the ‘collectors list’ of fine wines. What is brilliant about 28°-50° is the wide range of wines that they offer by the glass. There are 15 reds and 15 whites, and in addition to this, each wine is available in four different sizes, 75ml, 125ml, 250ml karafe and a bottle. We took this as instant encouragement to try as many as we could.

The food menu has a French feel to it with starters such as duck rillettes, onion soup and snails. We opted for a sharing plate of charcuterie that included smoked beef, perfectly piquant finely sliced chorizo and garlic sausage. We decided to take advice from our waitress on the best white to have with this and were steered towards a French wine from the Languedoc region. This was fruity and refreshing with the cold meats. The knowledge that our waitress had of the wines was fantastic and further demonstrated how seriously  28°-50° takes its wines.

Our main courses of poussin and skate were beautifully presented. The breasts of the poussin had been taken off the bone and neatly presented alongside the legs. A rich dark jus brought the meat together with the celeriac fondant, mushrooms and lardons. The skate with onions, capers and parsley had been cooked folded in on itself so that it formed a smaller thicker piece of fish. This meant that the flesh was beautifully moist and flaky. It was served with a light, creamy sauce that had the salty taste of the sea from the fish and capers. Scattered around the edge were new potatoes and some purple potatoes, it was a stunning looking dish that was absolutely delicious as well. At this point we wanted to move on to a red wine and were recommended a medium-bodied Rioja from Baigorri, Spain.

To round things off, we shared a selection of three cheeses: salers d’Estive, a French cheese that was similar to our cheddar, but with a more creamy, crumbly texture, classic Brie de Meaux, and a Gorgonzola. Our third and final recommendation from the wine list was a French fortified wine, very similar to a port, but much lighter and dangerously drinkable. I am going to have to go back again to find out the name of this as it was superb.

After our visit I read on their website that their chef has a very impressive CV, including five years as sous chef at Gordon Ramsay, Royal Hospital Road. The food really was excellent and this explained why.

28°-50° is absolutely worth a visit. The ambience is buzzing and relaxed, looking around everyone was genuinely enjoying themselves and getting suitably stuck in to the delicious wines. The service is extremely friendly and backed up by an excellent knowledge of the wines on which they pride themselves. In terms of value, the food is very reasonable with starters around £7 and main courses around £15. With such an extensive wine list there are options at both ends of the price spectrum, so you could temper your spending by staying at one end, but I would thoroughly recommend sampling a few.