Galvin at Windows, 22 Park Lane, W1K

Galvin at Windows is located on the 28th floor of the five star London Hilton Hotel on Park Lane. They were awarded their first Michelin star in 2010 and they are continually praised for their seasonal and inventive menu. But it’s not just the food that makes it special. As the name and location would suggest, the view is stunning. The large windows span the entire perimeter of the restaurant and bar, giving far-reaching views of London spanning the city, Hyde Park, the Thames and beyond.

We visited Galvin at Windows for lunch, which in retrospect was a wise choice at this time of year as we were able to enjoy the view in daylight. After an ear-popping journey in the lift up 28 floors, all trace of the hotel vanished and you are greeted by a wall of paneled mirrors that resemble the expanse of windows that are inside the restaurant. It’s quite a large restaurant, but they’ve designed it not to feel as such. There’s a raised seating area in the middle of the room and then a lower semi-circle of tables all around the windows. Not only does this add intimacy, but it also means that everyone can enjoy the skyline without feeling they are staring through the next-door table.

The service was attentive and we were quickly brought some delicious bread and a jug of water while we perused the menu. At lunchtime they offer an la carte menu, the menu prestige and a set lunch option. We opted for the set lunch, which is priced at £25 for two courses.

To begin with we both chose the velouté of pheasant, Jerusalem artichoke royal and foie gras. When the large bowls arrived there was just a tall tower of what looked like a firm mousse, sitting on a dark and sticky pool of the stewed meat. The waiter then poured the velouté around this tower. I enjoy this way of serving food, it really adds a sense of occasion. The velouté was luxuriously rich and silky. The three elements worked perfectly together. A little bit of the Jerusalem artichoke tower with some of the slow-cooked pheasant surrounded by a spoonful of the velouté made for an incredible mouthful.

To drink we opted for the ‘flight’ of two 100ml glasses of wine. This meant we could each choose two wines to go with our two courses. This is not something that I’d seen before and I think it’s an excellent idea. 100ml was just enough for each course and it was very good value at £7.50 for the two glasses.

For the main course, we had bouillabaisse and roasted fillet of pork. It’s a good thing that I enjoyed the ‘pour at the table’ service the first time round, as my bouillabaisse was presented in the same way. In the middle of the bowl was some deliciously creamy pureed potato scented with saffron topped with incredibly intricately cut and arranged pieces of fish. There were lovely tender pieces of squid, enormous mussels, a meaty white fish that I think was monkfish and a crispy-skinned piece of seabass. The vibrant orange sauce had a lovely bisque flavour and croutons and rouille accompanied it all.

The pork looked great as well. There were little pieces of roasted fillet accompanied by a pork croustillant (like a spring roll) and some quinoa and aubergine. An espelette (a type of pepper) sauce brought all this together.

We decided not to have pudding as we were pretty full, but instead opted for a coffee in the bar area to enjoy a different view, this time over the river and all the way down to Battersea Power Station. With our coffee came a large jar full of what looked like marshmallows and plate of chocolate petit fours. The marshmallows were, it has to be said, not at all nice. Luckily we tried these first so had a melt-in-the-mouth chocolate truffle to make up for it. Galvin at Windows really has got it right, they deliver fantastic food that more than matches the amazing view.